Guo Pei’s haute couture exhibition debuts in East Asia at M+

Chinese haute couture designer, Guo Pei’s thematic exhibition launched on September 21 at the M+ Museum, showcasing multiple iconic designs in East Asia for the first time.

"We hope to guide the audience to feel and reflect on the artistry of contemporary fashion and its connection with contemporary visual culture," said Ikko Yokoyama, lead curator of Design and Architecture at M+. 

Titled "Couture Fantasy," the exhibition features 11 collections by Guo Pei, with over 40 haute couture pieces, including the yellow gown worn by pop singer Rihanna at the 2015 Met Gala in New York.

"This dress is very challenging to wear, it’s large and the heels are high," Guo said in public talk. "I was worried Rihanna wouldn’t be able to walk on the red carpet," she said.

When Rihanna stepped onto the red carpet, Guo heard a gasp from the crowd. "I had only one thought: I've succeeded," she said.  This piece has become a landmark in Chinese haute couture and has made Guo Pei a household name in international fashion.

"I was deeply impressed when I saw this dress on a red carpet video for the first time. I thought we finally have an Asian fashion brand that can stand alongside Dior and Chanel," said Wesley Yu, 18. "Seeing it in person today, I can't help but marvel again at how exquisite and beautiful it is!" Yu said.

Guo Pei tailored the big red dress displayed prominently in the exhibition hall for American supermodel, Carmen Dell'Orefice as the finale of the legendary collection.

“The red colour represents blood, life and passion, sacrifice and dedication, and I'm especially grateful that Carmen Dell’ Orefice was able to wear this gown for me at 87, " Guo said. “She has dedicated her life to modelling, so I feel like she's a role model for me.”

“I can feel the time and love she pours into her work,” said Reina Hong, a jewellery shop owner. “ Each of her artwork is not just an inorganic living organism, but a work of art bursting with vibrant life.” she said.

“The first piece I recognized Guo Pei for was Dajin,” said Hilbe Pang, 18, admiring the golden dress created by Guo. “It was the signature of the entire collection. Its craftsmanship and embroidery are my first impression of her,” she added.

“More than 50,000 hours— even if it's 500,000 hours— I'm willing to put in. I just want to make the most beautiful big dress that I dreamed of when I was a kid,” Guo said. “I believe that designers should have their own freedom, not just make money for the brand, and the completion of the Daijin has allowed me to usher in my dream design.” she said.

Dajin combines traditional Oriental craftsmanship with Western embroidery and was honoured with the “Grand Prize for Fashion Design” at China International Fashion Week in 2006.

Time Magazine described Guo’s work as “immense, border-crossing, and not defined by East or West.”

Guo Pei said she never considers which country or culture an element comes from when she creates, nor does she make a distinction between how much of the culture is foreign and how much is domestic.

“Expressing love is how I blend all the elements,” Guo said.