Local artsy businesses transform old district into trendy check-in spots

In the century-old neighbourhood of Sham Shui Po, a poster shop stands on the corner of Ki Lung Street. Its classic Hong Kong film posters tell the stories of the past.

Wong Tak-hei, 32, has spent five years transforming his obsession with local films into a small shop called Moviemarks that sells what he calls collective memories.

“Unlike those fancy shopping malls you wouldn’t visit every day, Sham Shui Po is the kind of place you can visit on two different days and have a completely different experience,” Wong said.

Moviemarks is one of the small creative businesses located in Sham Shui Po, a district that was developed as early as the 1910s. A report by the Urban Renewal Authority in September 2023 highlighted the age of the area, as reflected in the old buildings, high population density and social problems related to subdivided residential houses. 

But recently, the community has nurtured creative local businesses and has become a haven for artistic shops. The area is bustling with trendy cafes and craft shops, and its themed streets have their own specialised categories of goods. Fuk Wing Street is the place for toy wholesale and retail, and Nam Cheong Street features ribbon selling.

In October 2020, urban culture magazine TimeOut selected Sham Shui Po as the third coolest neighbourhood in the world, in recognition of its creativity.

“The atmosphere here is unique, and I like it very much. These modern stores blend well with the old community, creating an interesting and fresh experience,” Wong added.

Xie Yongqi, 18, who has been living in Sham Shui Po since she was born, said she visits boutiques and toy stores every two weeks.

“I usually come here with my brother to pick out toys or buy gifts for friends. Sham Shui Po is undoubtedly the best place for these, as the small products here are both good and cheap,” she said.

Xie said streets in the district are now much wider and cleaner compared to three years ago. “Besides, I have observed a better community order and a more vibrant atmosphere of trendy culture and art, because I have found more great stores to visit and had good experiences,” she added.

Ricky Lau, 60, who has been running a vintage shop named Good Bad Creative on Nam Cheong Street since 2017, said Sham Shui Po is an old area with many thrift shops.

“It is the history that people come here to buy and sell used items. I also encountered and sold some unexpected small items. This has become a happy habit for me,” he said.

Before the business started, Lau held an exhibition with a toy shop style based on his toy collections from years ago. “Many people came to buy the collections and share their interests with me. Driven by others’ support and encouragement, I opened a large physical store to display my favourite antiques and sell other special small ones,” he said.

Lau later included vintage objects and trendy items, from vinyl records and old-school Hong Kong-style daily products to millennium-era accessories and toys.

“Every generation has something worth nostalgia for. By giving old items new life, the younger generation can come to understand Hong Kong in the past and see some differences between the impressions in their minds,” he said.

Edwin Lee, 50, opened his cafe, Colour Brown x Go On Space, on Apliu Street in 2019, out of his special affection for the street known for its electronics, gadgets and power tool shops.

“Because Apliu Street specialises in tool selling and I studied engineering in secondary school, I often come and spend time in the area,” he said. 

Lee feels deep authenticity and belongingness to the district. “It’s more down-to-earth here. You see families, old shops, and local snacks,” he added.

At Lee’s cafe, industrial-style interiors are decorated with retro radios and old Hong Kong posters, a mix that aims to appeal to both young visitors and longtime residents.

“Other coffee shops may be more youthful and trendy, but in Sham Shui Po, I think my cafe has to integrate old or nostalgic style to better root in this land,” he said. 

Wong observed that many old stores in Sham Shui Po have been renovated over the years.

“If everything were new, it wouldn’t be interesting. It’s quite fun when there are both new and old things,” Wong said.

“The old streets, combined with the trendy shops, make Sham Shui Po a place worth visiting, whether for taking nice photos or for a leisurely stroll in the afternoon,” he added.